Fermented fish, or plara, is made by fermenting fish with salt, a method shared across regions. However, what truly distinguishes the plara from each area, giving it its unique identity and character, is the salt used. Salt from the Isan region originates from the ancient seas of the Cretaceous period, which flowed into the land. As the land rose, it created two underground salt basins, the Sakon Nakhon and Korat basins. Evidence of salt production dates back to the Iron Age, or about 2,500 years ago, in areas such as the Phon Field and Samrit Field in Nakhon Ratchasima, as well as Nong Han in Sakon Nakhon and Thung Kula in central Isan.
The salt commonly found in the Isan region is known as din salt, or sinthao salt. Each province produces salt with different characteristics, giving rise to the unique flavors of the fermented fish in each area. The source of the salt used in the fermentation process directly affects the aroma, color, and taste of the plara.
The salt wells of Ban Dung and Ban Don Lan in Udon Thani are among the most renowned salt production sites in Isan. Their salt is exceptionally pure and rich in sodium, making it ideal for fermenting fish. This salt is especially suited for larger fish, producing high-quality plara with a fragrant aroma, perfect for dishes that require a rich umami flavor, such as fermented fish soup or grilled plara wrapped in kaffir lime leaves.
The Bamnet Narong salt well in Chaiyaphum produces salt with a distinct sharpness in flavor and a unique color. It is ideal for plara made from small fish, particularly those used in dishes where the bold aroma of fermented fish is desired, like som tam (papaya salad).
In contrast, the Bo Krathin salt well in Ban Phai, Khon Kaen, is known for its milder saltiness with a slight sweetness, containing higher levels of natural minerals. It is well-suited for fermenting smaller fish caught in the Kaeng Lawa and Lam Chi rivers. The resulting plara has a balanced, mellow flavor and is not overly salty, making it ideal for use in delicacies like plara made from white perch or small gourami, known for their smooth texture and unique taste.
These salt wells not only influence the taste of plara but also reflect the local wisdom and sustainable use of natural resources. Looking back to ancient times, salt mining from natural salt wells played a crucial role in the local economy and culture, making the production of plara distinctive based on the source of the salt used.
Each province’s plara has its own unique identity, whether it comes from Udon Thani, Chaiyaphum, Khon Kaen, or Kalasin. The salt used in the fermentation process is a key factor that imparts these plara varieties with their distinct flavors, while also serving as a representation of the rich local culture and wisdom.
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